Jump to content

'the Subtle Blade'


SURYADEV

Recommended Posts

In depth article on knife types to choose, its maintenence and usage.

http://www.righteouswarriortemple.org/New%20Folder/blade.htm

The Subtle Blade

INTRODUCTION:

Fighting with a weapon is always preferable to depending on one’s empty hands. A streetfight is not an athletic competition or a friendly roughhousing match where there are rules to be adhered to and the fight will be stopped before the loser is seriously injured. On the contrary, when you are accosted by a menacing stranger (or group of strangers) on the street, you are fighting for your life, there are no rules, and the loser has a high probability of being maimed or killed. If you find yourself forced into such a situation, you want every conceivable advantage.

THE TACTICAL FOLDER:

The humble pocketknife can provide a limited advantage when you are confronted by an unarmed assailant. Folding knives are commonly carried by respectable citizens from all walks of life, and generally are not prohibited weapons. It is good to make a practice of carrying a small knife, as it is a useful tool you can rely upon to assist in numerous tasks.

Modern quality folders, such as those offered by Cold Steel, SOG, Emerson, Benchmade, Microtech, Columbia River, Masters of Defense, Camillus, and Spyderco, usually have attached spring clips which can be slipped over a pocket, waistband, or belt, which make the knife far more accessible than if it were in a sheath or at the bottom of one’s pocket.

Many modern folders also can be flicked open one-handed thanks to thumbstuds and fingerholes incorporated into the blade design. A folder carried for defensive purposes needs both to be accessible and able to be opened quickly with one hand. I don’t think it is necessary to add that it must be a lockblade as well, since nowadays only penknives and Swiss Army knives are not equipped with locks. The style of lock you choose is a matter of personal preference.

LEGAL ISSUES:

In some jurisdictions, blades over a certain length, or with a sharpened top edge, are considered weapons and cannot legally be carried. A sharpened top edge is unnecessary, as are large blades, unless you are confronted with an armed opponent and need an added advantage. Small folding knives (blade length under 3") can be legally carried almost anywhere except courtrooms and correctional facilities, and were even allowed aboard most commercial airliners prior to the tragedy of 11SEP01 (although now any cutting implement, as well as Granny's knitting needles, are strictly forbidden unless packed away in one's checked luggage).

Be aware that many jurisdictions have outlawed the possession of a "concealed knife," which means that one’s knife must be openly displayed on one’s belt (although a "supercop" might point out that a folding knife within an opaque belt pouch would be "concealed"), so you are advised to research your local laws in order to assure compliance. A knife dropped in one’s pocket would be "concealed," unless a pocketclip partially exposed it to view. Be aware that the simple act of putting on a shirt, vest, or jacket can suddenly result in a legally carried knife becoming unlawful. Possession of a "concealed weapon" usually is construed to imply that "intent" existed to "use it unlawfully against another" — and that is all a jury needs to hear to convict you.

If larger knives may be carried without restriction, Cold Steel’s Scimitar and Vaquero Grande are both excellent choices (the Vaquero Grande is a contemporary version of the Gypsy navaja, having a fully serrated 6" blade and overall length exceeding 12" — grasped low on the handle, the heavy curved blade is excellent for chopping). Most people are uncomfortable carrying a folder with anything larger than a 4" blade. Larger knives appear more "weaponlike," even if designed for utilitarian purposes, and the overall length will be at least double the blade length due to the fact that the blade must be folded within the handle.

In the unfortunate event that an "incident" occurs in which you are required to defend yourself against an unlawful attack, the overall length is what will be listed in the police report as well as the local newspaper. Suddenly the 5" lockblade you use for everyday chores is transformed into a "ten-inch fighting knife." You will need to consider how this will sound to a jury, as well as the community at large.

HANDLE MATERIAL:

Since a quality folder is a substantial investment (typically between $50 and $150), you want to take time to select the one that is right for you. Many people prefer differing blade types and sizes, depending on fighting style or typical utilitarian uses. People also favor specific handles and points of balance. Handle material should be of a durable non-slip surface, such as Kraton (a brand of injection-molded textured rubber), Zytel (a brand of impact resistant plastic), or G-10 (an extremely durable synthetic composite). Avoid smooth textured handles that can become slippery if your hand becomes wet due to sweat, blood, or exposure to the elements.

Furthermore, never purchase a folder with the spring clip set into Micarta handle material. Micarta is a flimsy low-grade material made from laminated paper fabric which is lightweight and has a sharp appearance, but cannot withstand the stress of an attached spring clip being repeatedly used. The Spyderco Calypso and Jot Singh Khalsa models are both expensive and well-designed knives with the unforgivable flaw of shoddy handles with breakaway spring clips — and Spyderco is infamous for their bogus warrantee that ensures defective knives will be neither repaired nor replaced, and the customer will be blamed for the damage. Cold Steel, however, has an excellent customer service record (and they do not use Micarta).

CHEAP FOLDERS:

If you intend to carry a folding knife for personal protection, be sure to get the best you can afford. If protection is only a secondary consideration, the Gerber E-Z Out knives can be had for about $25 in the sporting goods section of most department stores. Under no circumstances are you to throw your money away on flimsy imported garbage in a misguided attempt to "save a buck."

Many cheap knives (typically manufactured in China, Taiwan, or Pakistan) are modeled after popular "tactical folders" but have little in common with the original product aside from a vague resemblance. These travesties (often with a price between $5 and $12, which should be an immediate tip-off to knowledgeable consumers) are little better than aluminum tent stakes — either they are so tight that they cannot be opened with one hand, or are so loose that the knife rattles when shook; furthermore, these "lockblades" have the unfortunate tendency to close upon one’s fingers when subjected to stress.

These folding jokes are typically found at gun shows, swap meets, flea markets, and in the showcases of unscrupulous merchants — because of their low price and easy availability, they are often found in the pockets of teenaged hoodlums and financially disadvantaged criminals. If you encounter one of these knives in the hands of an adversary, it will probably be dull, and if you find yourself grappling for it you may see the blade detach from the handle (upon application of lateral pressure). With folding knives, you definitely get what you pay for.

FIXED BLADES:

While non-folding sheath knives can legally be carried in many jurisdictions, and are considered by most "experts" to be superior to folders, if you are packing a hunting knife under your jacket the authorities will be more inclined to believe that you were "looking for trouble." Furthermore, a quality lockblade is nearly as quick and almost as durable as the typical sheath knife. Illegal blades, such as daggers, punch knives, switchblades, springblades, and straight razors should never be carried. Why risk a criminal violation when a suitable legal alternative exists?

If, for whatever reason, you abhor the thought of carrying a folder, I recommend that your sheath knife of choice have no more than a 3" blade, be carried unobtrusively, and appear somewhat non-threatening and utilitarian in nature. An excellent choice would be the Para Edge series from Cold Steel, which have rubberized handles with protective hilts and are designed to be worn in a Kydex sheath hung round the neck on a lanyard. The Mini-Culloden (also from Cold Steel) is more formidable, but manages to stay within the parameters of "social acceptability," even though it obviously is not intended as a utility blade.

Other discrete fixed-blade knives include the Escort from Boker (a Bud Nealy design) and the Scorpian from Masters of Defense — either of which can be worn a variety of ways, including hung round the neck. Also worth mentioning are the short clawlike knives which are rapidly gaining popularity, featuring a short downcurving blade (hawkbill) with a fingerhole for stability and which can also be hung round the neck; these knives include the Bear Claw series from Columbia River and the La Griffe (the claw) from Emerson — with blade lengths under 2", either could lawfully be carried where larger blades are prohibited.

The Sharpfinger from Schrade (marketed under the Old Timer and Uncle Henry brand names, and sometimes called the Wolverine) is a well designed classic whose handle protrudes only an inch from its optional drop-in sheath, allowing it to be carried openly without attracting undue attention. If you must carry a fixed-blade knife, it should be as compact as possible, because the larger it is the more "weaponlike" it will appear.

STRAIGHT OR CURVED?:

The two most basic blade styles are straight and curved. Straight blades are better suited for deep penetration, and curved blades are best for inflicting long gashes. Downward curving blades are called "hawkbills" and can deliver terrible ripping cuts. Oh, didn’t I mention that in a knifefight people get cut? This simple fact tends to upset a great many folks. Pacifists cannot conceive of any situation where an individual might be justified in cutting another person with a knife, even in the midst of defending oneself against an unprovoked unlawful attack. "Kick him in the groin and run away!" they say — these people are living in a fantasy world.

If you are suddenly attacked, especially if multiple assailants are involved, simple karate techniques may be inadequate and you may not have opportunity to retreat. In such a situation, you need to be physically able to inflict serious damage immediately and without warning in order to escape harm. For dealing with such a situation, your omnipresent folding "utility blade" is ideal.

True, a handgun might be more effective, but how many people carry a handgun everywhere they go? Handguns face many legal restrictions, they are bulky and uncomfortable to carry for extended periods, and their presence on the person of someone other than a police officer tends to make a lot of people extremely nervous. Not so with the knife. It is a legal, lightweight tool that any responsible adult has a legitimate reason for carrying. A pocketknife has never been used to implement a mass killing, so few people look upon one as a serious threat to public safety. The knife is one of the few weapons that can even the odds between a small or weak individual and a physically superior assailant. Very little strength is required to part soft tissue with a properly sharpened blade.

PLAIN OR SERRATED?

After choosing a straight or curved blade, you must decide whether you’d prefer a plain or serrated edge. Many knives are also available in a "50/50," or half-serrated style, which some people like.

A straight (or "plain") edge is the standard design found on most knives. Straight edges are easier to resharpen, but sharpening requires the proper tools as well as a certain degree of skill — it is easy to ruin a good knife through improper sharpening. If the blade is formed from high carbon steel, it can be honed to hair-splitting sharpness, but the blade must be protected from moisture, coated with a thin layer of oil, and polished frequently to prevent staining or corrosion. Many knifemakers offer blades formed from various types of "high-carbon stainless steel," which offers a good compromise between edge retention and corrosion resistance. If the edge has been "hollow ground," it will be capable of even greater sharpness (much like a straight razor), although this can also weaken the edge (making it prone to chipping under heavy use), and drastically reduce the shock of impact (indeed, your opponent may not even realize that he’d been cut until after the fight is over). Most traditionalists (especially amongst woodsmen and martial artists) favor the straight edge.

A serrated edge is now offered on many contemporary knives, and is rapidly gaining favor. Serrated edges typically consist of a series of scalloped edges ground into one side of the blade, resulting in a number of "teeth" suitable for aggressive cutting. Different manufacturers offer different versions of the serrated edge, and some (like the Cold Steel design) are a little better than others, but they are mostly similar. The serrated edge is unexcelled at cutting through tough materials (like leather, rubber, and seatbelts), and can even saw through a piece of wood, yet retains enough sharpness to thinly slice a tomato (just like the "Amazing Ginsu"). Furthermore, the serrated edge will inflict a ragged painful cut (almost like a laceration) rather than a painless incision that won’t even be noticed until your opponent "feels something wet." On the down side, serrated edges are difficult to resharpen, but it can be done by spending a half hour running a tapered diamond-rod hone along each scalloped edge at the proper angle — however, this type of blade very seldom requires sharpening. There is also a small chance that one of the more jagged designs (such as the Spyderedge) could snag on heavy clothing.

The "50/50," or "half-serrated" edge is offered by many knifemakers as a compromise between the straight and serrated edge. It combines ease of sharpening with the capability to cut heavy materials. In my opinion, this design is somewhat "half-assed." It seems intended for traditionalists who would like to try a serrated edge, but don’t want to fully commit themselves to purchasing a fully serrated blade (for whatever reason). On tactical folders, fighting knives, and balisongs, a few experts have expressed the view that the serrations might be better located from tip to middle, rather than from middle to hilt (as every "50/50" style blade is currently designed), since otherwise they would be unlikely to connect with the target (and thus couldn’t be relied upon to part heavy clothing).

Whatever style of edge you choose is dependant primarily upon personal preference. I prefer a fully serrated edge myself, but many experts strongly endorse the plain edge, and a few folks even think the "50/50" edge is superior. It is your knife, so select whatever you will feel most comfortable with.

SHARPENING & MAINTENANCE:

Knives are best sharpened with a long whetstone and a bit of honing oil. If you do not know how to use a whetstone, you can purchase various sharpening devices at shows or through mail order, but do a little research first and be sure to follow the instructions exactly. Electric sharpeners for chef’s knives work fairly well, but they can drastically shorten the life of your blade by removing too much metal.

If you plan on resharpening and maintaining a plain-edged blade, I recommend that you select a blade composed of quality high carbon steel — this steel will need to be oiled and polished frequently to prevent staining and corrosion, but it will take and hold an edge far better than stainless. Serrated edges seldom need resharpening and are great for cutting through tough materials — they are usually found on stainless steel blades. If you are going to buy a stainless steel knife, make sure it is a high grade alloy and not cheap garbage like "440 C". Cheap stainless is difficult to sharpen, does not take a fine edge, and dulls quickly — even if not used. Your carry knife must be kept sharp, and the point must be kept intact. A dull knife is worthless and dangerous to use.

Your knife should be cleaned, polished, and lubricated at least once a month. Powdered graphite is a good lubricant, as it doesn’t collect lint and grit like oil does. If you plan on frequently using your knife for heavy cutting, such as for chores or practice, I’d advise you to purchase a second knife to keep in reserve for when you eventually wear out or break your first one.

KNIFEFIGHTING BOOKS:

There are a great many books available that purport to be about knifefighting. Most of these focus on "quick kills" and sentry removal techniques, which have very limited applications in a non-military setting. Others are written by people who seemed to learn their techniques from watching action-adventure movies. Most contain diagrams of various vital areas suitable for stabbing, so as to inflict maximum damage. These books are interesting to read, and you can even learn something from a few of them, but they are mostly a waste of money.

A notable exception is Knives, Knifefighting, and Related Hassles by Marc "Animal" MacYoung (which is available from Paladin Press) . . . this book is required reading for anyone who chooses to carry a knife for defensive purposes. In real life, the few violent situations one must deal with in society very rarely call for the application of lethal force. If you kill another human being without adequate justification, not only must you face the consequences of your actions, but you will need to live with what you have done forever.

THE FUNDAMENTALS:

There are few techniques you need to learn in order to adequately defend yourself with a knife. First, you need to have a good sense of awareness, so people are less likely to be able to blindside you or take you off guard. Next, you need to maintain balance and defensive integrity, ascertaining that in making your attack you neither overextend yourself nor leave yourself open and vulnerable. And finally, you need to be willing not only to repeatedly cut into the flesh of a fellow human being, but to sustain limited damage to yourself in doing so.

A folding knife has a range of only several (3-5) inches beyond your closed fist, which means that he will be punching, clawing, and choking you the entire time you are stabbing him. If he also has a knife, you will almost definitely be stabbed or cut if you choose to engage, so a cautious retreat would be recommended unless for some reason retreat is not an option (you are defending a loved one or are attacked in your home by an intruder), in which case it might be desirable to upgrade to an improvised weapon with extended range.

A knife is not a magic wand that will keep assailants away from you or cause them to flee, although this sometimes occurs. A violent offender faced with a small blade will have little fear of it, and may choose to arm himself with a stick or several rocks in order to continue his attack while keeping out of your range. For this reason, it is best never to threaten an attacker with your knife. Indeed, he should not even be aware of its presence until after he has been cut!

KILLING IS UNNECESSARY:

It is best not to kill unless absolutely necessary. Killing means that there will be a body, you will be arrested, and your deed will be front page news. Killing should be avoided unless it is a matter of survival.

Most unarmed attackers, after getting slashed across the forehead or stabbed through the hand, will wisely retreat from the altercation, and it is usually prudent to allow them to do so. If they were the initial aggressor, it is unlikely that they will report you to the authorities if they are not seriously injured. Unless they’ve been stabbed in the belly or cannot stop their bleeding, it is unlikely that they will even go to the emergency room, as all such injuries must immediately be reported to the police. Several nasty gashes are enough to stop most altercations, and serious injury seldom results unless a nerve is severed or infection sets in.

The point of the blade is far more likely to kill than the edge, so stabbing to the head or body is a last ditch move used only when no other option exists.

SLASHING:

The forehead is an excellent target for a slash, as scalp wounds bleed profusely and the blood will run into the eyes, stinging, coagulating, and impairing vision. The chest and back can both be slashed with little risk of inflicting serious injury, but it will hurt, muscles could be damaged, and the flow of blood will be disconcerting to your opponent. A gash across the chest eight inches long and a half inch deep will stop all but the most determined attacker.

Slashes to the abdomen are not likely to cut into the viscera unless your blade is fairly long and you’re hitting real hard (there are about a half dozen different ways to make any given cut, with varying degrees of effectiveness), but the possibility exists that the abdominal wall could be breached and infection introduced, resulting in peritonitis, a potentially fatal condition. The abdomen should not be slashed unless you feel your life is in imminent danger.

The attacker’s hands and arms can also be slashed as he grabs for you. Cuts to the inside of the forearm can sever arteries and nerves, resulting in significant loss of blood or partial paralysis (which may be permanent). The face and throat should never be slashed at unless your intent is to deliberately maim or kill, which is usually uncalled for unless a threat can be repelled no other way.

STABBING:

Jabs, stabs, and thrusts can be delivered with the point of the blade to inflict varying degrees of damage based on force and targeting. The hands and arms are excellent targets, as they can be stabbed if he grabs for you, resulting in significant injury with minimal risk of death.

If you are knocked to the ground, the thigh makes an excellent target, though there is a risk of severing the femoral artery, which can result in death if a tourniquet is not immediately applied. Quick, light jabs to the torso and face can keep even the most determined attacker at a respectful distance, but powerful thrusts to anywhere on the trunk or head can easily kill, and should not be used except under the most dire of circumstances.

If, however, an attacker is wearing a leather jacket or insulated winter coat, stabbing will become necessary in order to make contact with flesh, as most folding knifes will not be able to inflict anything more than a scratch upon slashing through heavy clothing. If the chest cavity is penetrated and pink froth becomes evident in addition to a whistling sound, the symptoms indicate a "sucking chest wound" which must immediately be treated with an airtight seal (such as from a plastic bag being pressed firmly in place) in order to safeguard life (when appropriate).

PROFICIENCY:

Knifefighting is something that must be practiced for years before true proficiency can be attained. It is a subject which many study, but few master. There are over a dozen recognized styles of knifefighting, each with its proponents and detractors, but it is neither necessary nor desirable to limit yourself to a single method; rather, examine several styles, selecting whatever techniques seem to work best for you. Remember, different types of knives favor specific styles of fighting, so a style favoring daggers or Bowie knives may not have much application to your 3" folder. Self-defense with a knife, however, does not require "mastery" in order to be effective.

TRAINING:

Aside from awareness, balance, and technique, training emphasizes intimate familiarity with your knife of choice. Familiarity means drilling at repeatedly drawing and opening the knife from a variety of positions, and practicing slashes and thrusts both in front of a mirror and against a target you’ve constructed. Once familiarity is attained, you can be reasonably assured that you will not drop your blade upon drawing it, nor cut yourself while attacking your practice target. Once you have reached this point, it is safe to carry a knife for defense.

Knifefighting is not something that one can learn simply by reading a book and practicing the depicted moves versus an imaginary opponent. It is absolutely essential that you train by slashing and stabbing practice targets. It is nearly impossible to convey in words the proper way to make a "power-slash" or execute a rapid combination of light defensive cuts, but by observing the results of your techniques on a practice target you can immediately see exactly how effective your moves would be. Furthermore, training with a practice target will show you the proper distance you must be from your opponent, prepare you for the shock of unexpectedly connecting with solid bone, and greatly improve your accuracy. Unless you have perfected your techniques on a series of practice targets, you are only pretending to be a knifefighter. Practice targets can easily be constructed from corrugated cardboard, carpet remnants, discarded clothing, and duct tape. Do not make the mistake of deluding yourself into thinking you’ll know how to handle yourself when you’ve never practiced on anything but air.

If you want more realistic practice, you can obtain a training blade of the approximate size of your carry knife and engage sparring partners instructed to take it away from you without getting "stabbed." To make sparring sessions more interesting, you can apply red lipstick to the edge and point of your practice knife and have your partner(s) wear white shirts (or you can arm them with wiffleball bats). However, you need to remember at all times that this is not a game, but a deadly serious matter.

The more familiar you are with your weapon and technique, the higher the likelihood that your defense will be effective. If you are too slow, too clumsy, or not aggressive enough, you will not be successful. If you pull a knife to repel multiple attackers and are unsuccessful in doing so, the consequences will be most dire. Retreat is a viable option — losing is not.

AFTERWORD:

As long as you remain within the law, and as long as you don’t flaunt your knife or talk about how you "carry one for protection," the authorities(as well as society in general) will tend to accept your possession of a knife without question. Many mature responsible adults carry a knife on a daily basis, and it is not considered unusual to spot a belt pouch or pocket clip on passers-by.

A knife is a tool that can be used as a weapon, just as virtually any tool can be used as a weapon. Knives are common tools that are regularly used for a vast array of tasks, both at home and at work (however, it is important to be able to name several daily functions of your "tool" in the event that you are questioned by police). The knife is one of mankind’s most important tools, and has significantly influenced our evolution into modern civilization.

You never know when you’ll need a knife (for either utilitarian or defensive purposes), so it’s best to always "be prepared." Don’t leave home without one.

TIPS ON KNIFE SELECTION:

1.) Select the size you feel most comfortable with. For many people, this will be a 4" blade, although some will want a longer blade, and a few will be restricted to a smaller blade. Pick the size that best fits your personal requirements.

2.) Ascertain that the knife feels comfortable in your hand. Is it a secure grip? Do you like the balance? It should fit your hand perfectly, and swellings, curves, and finger-grooves may either enhance or detract from this effect. Remember, your blade must become an extension of yourself, and if it doesn’t "feel right" in your hand, it will be deleterious to this goal.

3.) Ascertain that you can easily open the blade one-handed. Some knives are very tight, which makes them difficult to open. Others have poorly designed thumb-studs, or have undersized finger-hole cutouts located too close to the handle, which will also make opening difficult — especially if you have large hands.

4.) Make sure that the knife appears durable. The steel, pins, lock, and handle material must all be top quality. Avoid purchasing knives which have plastic pocket-clips molded into the handle, as they have a tendency to snap (and cannot be repaired or replaced). Also avoid purchasing knives with "reversible" thumb-studs, as they can potentially come loose and fall off. Be aware that if the blade has a needle-point or a hollow-ground edge, it can be easily damaged, making it unsuitable for heavy utility purposes.

5.) Make sure the knife fits the image you wish to project. Do you want a large serrated blade which has obviously been designed as a fighting knife, or would a more discrete utility-style blade be more suitable? Do you want a knife that can potentially frighten off a menacing antagonist simply by displaying it, or would such a knife just call unwanted attention (and possibly embarrassment) to yourself? You need to think this through before buying a wicked-looking jumbo folder on impulse.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also note the part mentioning knives made by Jot Singh Khalsa/Spyderco. I always thought he made decent stuff, albeit more for show than usage.

"Furthermore, never purchase a folder with the spring clip set into Micarta handle material. Micarta is a flimsy low-grade material made from laminated paper fabric which is lightweight and has a sharp appearance, but cannot withstand the stress of an attached spring clip being repeatedly used. The Spyderco Calypso and Jot Singh Khalsa models are both expensive and well-designed knives with the unforgivable flaw of shoddy handles with breakaway spring clips — and Spyderco is infamous for their bogus warrantee that ensures defective knives will be neither repaired nor replaced, and the customer will be blamed for the damage. Cold Steel, however, has an excellent customer service record (and they do not use Micarta)."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...