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I have to say Braj mandal has something very special about it (barring squalid mathura). I was there in winter, with the mist, the cold and the tangible bhakti in the air, it was a very beautiful place to be. Guru Nanak Dev, Guru Tegh Bahadur and Guru Gobind Singh Ji all visited Mathura and Vrindavan. At Mathura there is an Udasi shrine which marks the place where Guru Maharaj took ishnan in the Yamuna. There are a couple of Udasin ashrams in Vrindavan as well (the Bada Panchayat Udasin akhara being most interesting for its shrine in the akhara being a glass encased copy of Sri Bhagvatam).

I'm waffling, here's a great site for relatively open-minded Gaudiya writings. I'm not a fan of ISKCON myself despite having a few ISKCON friends, because of their blinkered approach to other traditions and their horrific political history. But gaudiya-mat otherwise is very interesting, particularly texts like Rup Gosvami's 'Bhakti Ras Amrit Sindhu'..and this bloke seems to be on the ball too;

www.swami.org

Go to the 'sangha' section for some great vichaar.

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